Brief Description: Cutting Baffles To Match Cowling Contour - Part 02
I used the pneumatic 3" cutoff wheel to smoothly go all the way around the baffling, cutting right at the dotted line. When I put the top cowling back on, I found that it had come down about 1/2 inch from its original position, leaving about a 1/2" gap still on the sides. I marked a careful 1/2" line down from the top of the baffle and re-cut again using the 3" cutoff wheel. This time, the top cowling fit right down on the bottom cowling! Sweet!
Next I used a fat Sharpie pen and marked a line from underneath the cowling all the way around the baffling on the baffling. This gave me a very exacting contour line. I cut this line down all the way around. I marked another 3/8" down all the way around to give adequate clearance between the baffling and the cowling and then cut this line leaving just a little extra.
I used a giant rasp/file then, to go all the way around the top of the baffling and filed it exactly down to the line. When all was said and done, I have a perfect contour on the top of the baffling, leaving about a 3/8" gap between the baffling and the bottom of the top cowling. I reassembled the top and bottom cowling pieces just to be sure everything fit correctly.
I found that I had to shave quite a bit off the left side particularly back around the oil cooler baffle. It didn't leave too much of the left-rear flange but I think its fine. The point here is to BE SURE to do all of your baffle contouring BEFORE you start to mount your oil cooler. Had I mounted the oil cooler before I finished the contouring phase, I would have been sorely disappointed as I would have mounted it a good 1-2" too high!
